Cycling North

I made my way back to stay with Tove. I got given a lift through the sea tunnel and as far as the silver shop, which I had passed on my cycle north. No need to cycle the same road twice! Then cycled via Oldderfiorden to the farm which Tove's husband runs. They have about 30 cows - dairy but there is an automatic milking system, so the cows decide when they are going to be milked. They also have some sheep. Plus go fishing, I had the most amazing king crab for tea.      The families true love, however, is Liverpool football team, and they are avid supporters. They play a lot themselves as well. There is a reason for this. Until the early 1990's there was only one T. V.  Channel and like in the UK the Saturday fixture was match of the day, so most people in Norway support an English team. In this case Liverpool, they have been to see them play several times.  A special thank you to this family for looking after me.

The mist crept up overnight, so no more hill walking or exploring. Instead a cycle back down the hairpin bends to Honningsvag and the sun.                                   Had just settled at a cafe when Gabriel appeared along with Francesco the Italian I had met at the campsite in Tromso. It is amazing how the day goes when chatting to friends, in the sun, overlooking the harbour. 4 pm before I knew it.     Staying with Tove again on Sunday night and looking forward to the crabs I have been promised. So a bus back part of the way seemed in order (cycling North not home). However not one until Sunday morning, so cycled south to a small fishing hamlet, and asked if there was somewhere I could camp.      Well they took me to a house facing the sea/fiord, owners away on holiday and I just put up my tent on their decking. Even shown by the fishermen to a shower roo...

So a great night last night thanks to Tove, who fed me,( a barbecue with salmon), laundered clothes, then transported me back to rhe North side of the 7km long sea tunnel.   It was then a cycle up to the campsite before the top where I set up my tent as a base camp. The mist was rolling in starting low and working up, so I had to cycle to Nordkapp in the afternoon before there was a grey out. Lucky it was still sunny at the Cape plus I was able to climb a small hill to get some views.   A lot of tourist traffic at the top -a bit like John oGroats. So I have cycled nearly  2000 miles. Been to the top of the U.K. and the top of Europe. Now I just have to get home.

Wednesday 18th- 64 miles to Olderfiorden Thursday 19th -50 miles approx. To just before the sea tunnel which takes me onto the Island where Nordkapp ia at the top of. So yesterday was hills and plateaux, very hot but difficult to stop because if I did the flies started to lap up my sweat. Did find a nice rest stop with a bench and shade cover to have a siesta at one point. Watched emergency services race past. When I started cycling again I passed a long tailback of parked cars- a car had crashed into ditch. They let cyclists through. A long stop at Skaidi, then when it got cooler enjoyed cycling the next pass.   Reached campsite late. The shower and sauna were combined. A couple of very overweight Finns making use of the facilities (male with no clothes on) not a pretty sight! Today cycling north... beautiful, hot, tunnels, reindeer,silver shops and have now been collected and taken home by my Norwegian cyclist friend who I passed on a steep hill earlier in the trip. ...

I cann t believe how hot is has been today! I have my winter gloves and cold weather gear packed at the bottom of my panniers. I expected to be wearing them at this stage. Have passed families playing in the fjords, at the edge, not actually seen anybody swimming, but I have heard of some cyclists who have.     A new road has/is being built; not a lot of traffic. The new road is good because it is smooth to cycle on and many of the sharp bends have been blasted away, but bad because like all new highways there is no shade as surrounding vegetation has not grown back yet. A few new tunnels- one 2.5 km one I had to cycle through  Others required a detour, which provided shade but also mean a big climb.  Passing stalls selling Sami made trinkets and reindeer skins. Also on one detour passed an old church built for the copper miners. A big mining operation in the past.   Also talking to a lot of people during my frequent stops. I enjoyed my break with a pleasant...

 Fish Drying Rack Sunday evening view of the hills from my campsite. Monday morning's treat-coffee and cake!

To Alteidet Carrying on cycling along the E6 the only through road. Mountains, hills, down to sea level then up again. Sun shining, views fantastic. A few old World War 2 sites For example a crumbling concrete German bunker. Norwegian prisoners of War had to keep the road I have been cycling free from snow so that the Germans could get supplies through,.   I have also started to Enter Sami territory. Road side stalls selling trinkets made from reindeer antlers. Have also been cycling through reindeer habitat but have not seen any yet.

So now I am cutting West before going North. Not a lot of roads out of Tromso, so for what should have been a short while,was on the E 8 which goes South. Missed my turn and went too far and had to return to my 91 turnoff; not well signed,so that is my excuse! 2 ferries and snow peaked mountains later,I really do feel as if I am getting further north.   Beautiful fiord after the first ferry, but the mountains are not all they seem..... apparently there is a large NATO base underneath them, with missiles ready to defend Tromso. Also a large underground hospital. I know all this because as I waited for the ferry and then on it, I was talking to an elderly gentleman who has lived in the area all his life.   It is then back onto the E8-there are no other roads north- but then there are not a lot of towns either. Camping again tonight and looking out at mountains across the fiord which have snow in the gulleys.

I like Tromso. Not a big place. The centre is probably about the size of Inverness. It sits on it's own island., so last night their was another long bridge to reach the town, then a cycle half around the island to take me off the island to my campsite on the other side.     There is a newish, large cathedral known as the arctic cathedral made of concrete. Not to sure about the design!      There are tattoo shops, Thai massage parlours, burger and grill places, an indoor shopping centre, fancy looking bars and a few empty shop spaces.     There are also fishing boats, some original old wharf style buildings, museums and some big hotels. Further up the fiord is a cruise liner, but not as big as the ones which visit Invergordon.  I visited the polar museum. I recommend it. Trapping and hunting were a way of life here. But like elsewhere it was done to such a level that species reached near extinction levels; For example, Svalbard has a special ...

T hursday approx. 48 miles to Erysfiord Friday 57 miles to Tromso  For the last couple of days I have been cycling towards Tromso. The coast of Norway is a mass of islands, so yesterday began with a cycle to Andenes, then a mornings' wait fot the 1pm ferry to the large island of Senja. Andenes, like all towns in Northern Norway, was built in the 1950's - 60's. The German army destroyed everything, I think, in Northern Norway; after they left, only 2 bridges remained intact. There are now a lot of bridges!   So Andenes was fine- it has a lighthouse, supermarket, outdoor shop and various buildings housing fish related industries, like processing and boat repair.  A longer ferry journey than normal because of leaving the Lofoton islands. I had liked the last island Andoya best, with its sandy bays, moorland and mountains. There are a lot of hikes here- good mountain climbing country. Oh yes, a couple of nature highlights today: saw an enormous eagle very clos...

Day of sunshine. Following Cycle Route1 even when it takes me a slightly longer way round. Why? Because the route is amazingly beautiful and it seems a shame to miss out on the best bits to save a day. So it was the West Coast of Andoya, rocky, small sandy bays, areas of bog cotton. Met the organised cycle group again and had coffee with them. A few of them are on electric bikes plus they are not carrying tent and the like, but they are doing well. Camping at a sandy bay about 9kms before Andenes where I get the ferry and start my cycle towards Tromso, which should take about 3 days. If you would like to contribute to my charity, follow this link....